KitchenSavvy

Inconsistent Gelatin Results

I find that I get inconsistent results when I use gelatin.  Even for the same recipe, sometimes it will come out softer or firmer than other times.  What is happening?

--Sara

Gelatin is a protein-based thickening agent used primarily in making desserts, aspics and jellies.  It comes in a powdered form which is easy and convenient for home cooks, and in a sheet form which is more often used commercially.   It can be tricky to get good results though, for a number of reasons.

First, despite the assurances of the manufacturers of the envelopes of gelatin which state that they are supposed to contain just enough to thicken two cups, never trust the contents to be measured accurately.  In my own kitchen, I have found up to about a 25% variation in the amount of gelatin in a pouch.  That is enough to make a difference in the result.

Gelatin should be soaked for about five minutes in a cool liquid first, before being heated or combined with hot liquids.  This soaking allows moisture to penetrate into the granules so that they will dissolve more readily in heat.  If you pour powdered gelatin directly into a boiling liquid, it will form clumps that take longer to dissolve.  Gelatin that remains undissolved results in a grainy texture and does not help to thicken the dish.

According to Corriher, gelatin loses some of its thickening power when boiled.  It should be heated only until fully dissolved, or should have the hot liquids added to it off heat, depending on your recipe.

Also, other ingredients such as sugar and salt can affect the result.  Salt will interfere with the bodong of protein molecules, making a weaker product, while sugar will attract water away from the gelatin molecules, causing a firmer result.

If you are using fruit, be sure it is not one that can affect the setting of gelatin, such as raw pineapple or kiwi (see Jellied Fruit Salad Won't Set). 

Acids found in fruit juices, wines and other ingredients can also affect the result by making the gelatin proteins less likely to bind together, by creating an electrical charge on the molecules which force them to repel each other.

Finally, when cooling jellies or other foods containing gelatin, resist the temptation to put it in the freezer, as the gelatin molecules need to move freely in the cooling liquid so that they can become entangled.  Too fast of cooling can prevent this from happening.  According to Harold McGee, jellies that are snap-chilled will regain a more normal consistency after a few days.

While not as fussy as some ingredients, gelatin does require some care in measurement of the ingredients used in preparing any dish.

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For fans of KitchenSavvy, our local paper, the Saskatoon Star Phoenix, recently ran an article titled "In the Kitchen with ... Dave and Patricia Katz".  This is the most recent installment of their In the Kitchen series.  In the article you can find five of our favorite recipes including Pissaladiere, which is already posted here, and Shrimpniks, a lemon-butter-garlic shrimp recipe created in tribute to Cousin Nik's restaurant, which we used to like goiing to before it went out of business.

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If you have food or cooking questions, send them to Questions@KitchenSavvy.com



Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered.
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward

Schmaltz

What is Schmaltz?  How is it made?

--Brad

Schmaltz is the rendered fat of chickens, used in traditional Jewish cooking.  The word comes from the Yiddish for "chicken fat."

It's made by cutting  the skin and fat from the birds into small pieces (1" or 2.5 cm square) and placing them into a saucepan with a small onion that had been cut into slices, a 1/4 cup of water, and optionally half an apple, peeled, cored and sliced.

The whole lot is brought to a boil over medium heat until the water has completely cooked away.  Reduce the heat and watch for the skin and onions to start to become dark golden brown.  At this point, the fat can be strained off from the solids and kept for cooking.  Let the pieces of skin drain on a paper towel, salt lightly and eat like cracklings.  The cooked onion can be saved and incorporated into other dishes, such as chopped liver.

Because Jewish kosher law prohibits the use of dairy and meat in the same meal, schmaltz is often used as a replacement for butter, either in cooking or as a spread.  Kept refrigerated, schmaltz has a long shelf life.

Schmaltz may also be made from duck or other poultry, although chicken is most common.

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On another note, CJ Katz (no relation, as far as I know) from Regina, author of the Savour Life e-zine, took a shot at one of my favorite peeves -- outmoded and inedible garnishes.  She scored a bullseye, as far as I'm concerned, especially when it comes to rosemary.  Sure, I love the smell of the stuff and cook with it often, but lumber is not a garnish.

The article fits well with my frequent rants in KitchenSavvy about the attention to detail and style that make a restaurant stand out.  It appears in the setting, the flavors, the presentation, the attitude of the wait staff, and even the garnish.

There is a subscribe button on the page banner for Savour Life.  It's worth doing.

Well done, CJ.

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If you have food or cooking questions, send them to Questions@KitchenSavvy.com



Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered.
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward

Getting Color into Stock

I made chicken stock the other day that ended up almost colorless.  The taste was fine, though.  How can I add more color to my stocks?

--Traci

Some color in chicken stock may be a result of what the chicken was fed.  Most of the color, however, comes from how the stock is made.  If you are looking more color, you can try these tricks:

• If you are using yellow onions in your stock,  leave the skins on.  Clean off the root end to get rid of the root fibers which may get into the stock, trim the other end and then cut the onion in half lengthwise leaving the skins on.  You could even throw in the skins from one or two more onions if you want.  Beware, though, because the skin can add a bitter flavor if too much is used.
• After you cut the onions in half, brown the cut sides in hot oil in a fry pan over medium heat, taking care not to burn them.  The color from the browning will enhance the color of the stock.
• Brown the chicken in bones in the oven before making stock from them.  Spread them in a single layer in a roasting pan and cook them at around 350°F (180 °C) until they are nut brown, about an hour or so, depending on the quantity and the size of pieces.  Turn once or twice so they brown on all sides.  The exact temperature isn't important.  You can also toss the carrots and celery in a little oil and roast them at the same time.  Be careful that nothing burns as that will ruin the stock.
• A small amount of saffron added to the pot will give a yellow color, but too much will also add flavor.

Browning the bones will result in a more tan colored stock that the other suggestions.  You can also brown the bones, meat and vegetables when making beef stock to add color.

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If you have food or cooking questions, send them to Questions@KitchenSavvy.com



Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered.
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward

Breadmaker Jewish Rye Bread

If you own an automatic breadmaker and are getting tired of the same old loaf with the paddle hole in the bottom, then you should try using it for something new.  I frequently use my bread maker as a mixer/proofer and then shape the loaf by hand to cook in the oven.

The following recipe is for Jewish-style rye bread, based rather loosely on the book Secrets of a Jewish Baker: Recipes for 125 Breads from Around the World by George Greenstein.  It reminds me of the caraway rye bread that my father used to like.  Somehow, when we were kids, Dad convinced my siblings and me that the best part of the bread was the heel - the crusty end of a loaf of bread.  Whenever there was a new loaf of bread, he would ask "Who want the end?"  Four voices would cry out, "I do, I do!"  Dad would make a big show of deciding who had yelled first, and then cut the end off the bread and hand it to one of us.  So, in honor of Dad ...

Breadmaker Jewish Rye Bread

This recipe is made to work with my Black & Decker B1630 Breadmaker, which can make loaves up to two pounds in size.  You may need to adjust it for your breadmaker.  The recipe has a starter, which is mixed and allowed to proof overnight, followed by making the actual dough.

Starter
Amount		Measure	Ingredient
1	¼	c	Rye Flour
1	⅓	c	Water
1		tsp	Active Dry Yeast
1		tsp	Caraway Seeds - optional
	¼	tsp	Onion Powder - optional
Dough
Amount		Measure	Ingredient
	⅓	c	Water
2		tsp	Salt
1		tsp	Caraway Seeds - optional
3	¼	c	White Flour
1		tsp	Active Dry Yeast

1. If using caraway seeds, start by grinding the teaspoon of caraway that goes into the starter mixture.  Following your breadmaker's instructions, add the ingredients for the starter.  As soon as mixing has completed, turn off the breadmaker, or unplug it.
2. Leave to proof at room temperature in the pan of the breadmaker overnight or up to 24 hours.  The longer it rests, the more sourdough flavor will develop.
3. Set the breadmaker to the dough setting and add the rest of the ingredients.  Allow to run through the entire dough setting.  If your machine doesn't have a dough setting, then just shut it off or unplug it after the dough is complete and has risen, but before it starts to cook, about 2 hours depending on your breadmaker.
4. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, punch it down and then shape into a round or elongated loaf.  Place onto a baking sheet or, if you have a large enough pizza stone to hold the loaf, put the loaf onto a piece of parchment paper.  Cover loosely with a lightly floured cloth and let rise until nearly doubled.
5. Meanwhile heat your oven to 375°F (190°C).
6. When the bread is ready to cook, uncover the loaf, using a sharp knife or razor blade make a few slashes in the top and place it in the oven.  If you are using a pizza stone, use a peal to transfer the loaf on its parchment paper onto the stone.
7. Cook for about 40 minutes, until brown and the loaf makes a hollow thump when tapped on the bottom, or until an instant read thermometer reads 205°F (96°C).

Per Slice: 82 Calories; trace Fat (3.3% calories from fat); 2g Protein; 17g Carbohydrate; 1g Dietary Fiber; 0mg Cholesterol; 179mg Sodium

NOTES:

1. During the resting period the top of the breadmaker pan can be covered with plastic wrap to prevent drying.  Do not operate the breadmaker with the plastic wrap in place.
2. If you want a shiny crust, typical of some rye breads, make a solution of 1 tablespoon of cornstarch to ½ cup of cold water.  Heat it in your microwave or on the stovetop, stirring occasionally, until it thickens.  Brush this solution onto the loaf just before slashing the top.

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If you have food or cooking questions, send them to Questions@KitchenSavvy.com



Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered.
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward