KitchenSavvy

Going Up in Smoke

In a posting recently, you mention cold smoking.  Can you please explain the difference between cold smoking and hot smoking?

Thanks

--Shawn

Traditionally, smoke was used to cure and meat, fish or other foods to help prevent spoilage.  Nowadays, smoking may also be done simply to add flavor or complexity to foods such as cheeses or vegetables.

Cold smoking adds flavor and helps to preserve meat without cooking it.  Typically, cold smoking is done in a temperature range of around 70°F to 90°F ( 21°C to 32°C), depending on what kind of food is being smoked.  Because the temperature is so low, equipment for cold smoking usually has a firebox where wood is burned and the resulting smoke is routed into a separate chamber where the food is placed.  Because the temperature is so low, the meat or other food isn't cooked, but the smoke accumulates on the surface and penetrates into the outer layer of the food.  Cold smoking may be combined with other techniques like salting or brining to further help preserve the food.

In hot smoking, the firebox may be integral to the smoking chamber or attached directly to it.  The temperature of the smoking chamber will usually run between 140°F to 180°F ( 60°C to 80°C).  Hot smoke foods may be eaten immediately, as in traditional barbecue, or may be cooled down to be eaten later, as happens with some forms of sausage.

In either case, the food is either hung or placed on racks in order to maximize the surface area exposed to the smoke.

For something different, try taking your favorite blue cheese, cold smoking it for about 15 to 30 minutes, depending on taste, and then mixing it with equal parts mayonnaise and sour cream to make a dip for vegetables.  You can play with the flavors even more by adding a little cumin or curry powder to the mix.

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If you have food or cooking questions, send them to Questions@KitchenSavvy.com



Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered.
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward

A "Grate" Secret for Tender Biscuits

For years, I have heard of the technique of using frozen butter to make better biscuits.  It's one of those ideas that you say to yourself, "I'll have to try that some day," but somehow you just never get around to it.

By grating the frozen butter and then gently mixing it into the dry ingredients, you avoid having the butter soften to the point that it actually blends into the flour.  For light biscuits, you want flour and butter to be distinct, so that the flakes of butter melt and release steam into the dough, making it light and fluffy.  If the butter is melted into the flour during blending, this won't happen.  In addition, the shards of frozen butter trap some air due to their shape, which adds to the lightness of the finished product.

Recently Chef Michael Smith wrote an article for the Globe and Mail describing this technique.  Well, it finally was time.  This past weekend I made a beef stew, and decided to serve biscuits with it, using Chef Smith's technique.  To start though, I had to modify his recipe a bit because I had planned to make buttermilk biscuits.  Chef Smith's recipe called for plain milk.  To change the recipe, I had to replace some of the baking powder with baking soda to offset the acidity of the buttermilk.   The general rule is that you need about ½ teaspoon of baking soda per cup of buttermilk (see Baking Soda and Buttermilk).   A half teaspoon of baking soda will give the same rise as two teaspoons of baking powder.

Armed with these substitutions, I used the following recipe for my Biscuits:

               

Buttermilk Biscuits
2		cups	All-purpose flour
1	½	tsp	Baking Powder
	½	tsp	Baking Soda
	½	tsp	Salt
	¾	cup	Butter, frozen
7		fl. oz.	Buttermilk

1. Preheat your oven to 400°F (205°C).
2. Combine all of the dry ingredients in a mixing bowl and set aside.
3. Measure and set aside the cold buttermilk.
4. Using the large holes of a box grater, grate the frozen butter into shards.  Add the butter to the dry ingredients and then toss with a spoon just to blend, breaking up any clumps of butter that may have formed during the grating.  Do not over mix.
5. Pour in the buttermilk and stir in with a spoon, just until the ingredients pull together.  Turn the mixture out onto a lightly floured surface and knead the dough gently, just a few turns, to bring it together into a single mass.  If necessary add a bit more buttermilk or some water.
6. Shape the dough into a rough circle and cut into wedges, or roll out and cut to any desired shape.
7. Transfer the biscuits to a baking sheet that has been lightly coated with cooking spray and cook 15 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown.

Makes 8 to 12 biscuits.

If you want, you can brush the surface of the biscuits with milk to given a nicer finish when they are cooked.  Chef Smith suggests sprinkling them with coarse salt and fresh ground pepper before baking.

To make it easier to grate the butter without skinning your knuckles, start with a larger piece and mark the ¾ cup measure onto the block with a sharp knife.  Wrap the unused end in the paper the butter came in, and then grate down to the mark, holding the wrapped end.

This recipe uses regular, salted butter.  If you wish to use unsalted butter, increase the salt in the recipe by ¼ teaspoon.

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If you have food or cooking questions, send them to Questions@KitchenSavvy.com



Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered.
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward

Barbecued Bones

Well, we're starting to see the last of winter in Saskatchewan.  It has been long and at times bitterly cold, but as the days get longer and the sun gets warmer, you start to allow yourself to think about summer's treats, just around the corner.

One of mine is a feast of Barbecued Bones.  Rich, meaty beef ribs that have been slowly braised until they are so tender the meat is a dark chocolaty brown, dripping with rich sauce and fork tender.  A feast so good, I have friends with standing orders to be invited back for more.

To make them, I start with beef short ribs which I fire over a hot grill until they are seared completely on the outside.  Grilling adds flavor and cooks off some of the fat.  Then I put them into a pot, cover them with barbecue sauce and simmer them over low heat for hours. 

The following recipe will serve six good appetites, or four if they are really hungry.

Barbecue Bones
8		lbs	Beef Short Ribs
1		batch	Barbecue Sauce (below)
1		can	Condensed Beef Broth
1	¼	cups	Water
Barbecue Sauce
2		cup	Water
2		cup	White Corn Syrup
2		5 1/2-fl. oz. Can	Tomato Paste
1	½	cup	Cider Vinegar
	½	cup	Molasses
4		tsp	Liquid Smoke
2		tsp	Salt
1		tsp	Onion Powder
1		tsp	Fresh Ground Black Pepper
	½	tsp	Dry Mustard
	½	tsp	Paprika
	½	tsp	Garlic Powder
		dash	Cayenne Pepper
1		cup	Brown Sugar

To make the Barbecue Sauce, combine all of the ingredients in a large sauce pan, bring to a boil and reduce over low heat until there are about 4½ to 5 cups of liquid left.  Stir frequently to avoid burning.  This sauce can be used for any kind of barbecued meat, or burgers.

To make the bones, fire your grill to high heat and then sear the bones on all sides.  Place bones in a large pot or dutch oven and pour over the barbecue sauce, stock and water.  Simmer on the stove top, covered, over a low heat or cover and put in a 275°F (135°C) oven.  Check the pot a few times at the start.  You want to cook them at a very slow simmer, just so that you can see a few small bubbles breaking the surface.  Adjust the heat up if there are no bubbles, or down if it starts to boil.  Cook for three to four hours, or until fork tender, turning occasionally so that any meat above the liquid doesn't dry out.

Serve with baked potatoes, corn on the cob and plenty of napkins.

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If you have food or cooking questions, send them to Questions@KitchenSavvy.com



Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered.
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward

Bean and Barley Soup Nana

When our children came along, my Mom decided that she wanted them to call her Nana, so that became her name in later life.  This soup was a family favorite.  It is a hearty soup, perfect for cold days.  If you want, replace the beef with lamb or mutton to make Scotch Broth.

Makes about 16 servings.

Bean and Barley Soup Nana

Amt		Units	Ingredient
	¾	Cup	Dried lima beans
	½	Cup	Dried navy beans
1	½	Lbs	Beef Shank, cubed
2		Tbsp	Olive oil
	¼	Cup	Dried porcini mushrooms
16		Cups	Water
	½	Tsp	Fresh ground pepper
1		Large	Bay leaf
	½	Cup	Dried lentils
1		Cup	Barley
2		Med	Onions, diced
2		Med	Carrot, diced
2		Clove	Garlic, minced
3		Large	Potatoes, peeled and cubed
1		Tbsp	Salt

1. Clean and soak beans overnight in cold water.  Drain well, rinse and drain again, discarding the water each time.
2. In a large pot, sauté the beef in the oil until browned on all sides.  Do in batches, if necessary, to avoid crowding.
3. Meanwhile, soak the dried mushrooms in 1 cup of boiling water.  Drain the mushrooms, reserving the soaking water.  If necessary, chop the mushrooms into smaller pieces.  Strain the soaking water to remove any sediment.
4. Add beans, the water in which the mushrooms were soaked and the plain water to the pot with the beef and bring to a boil.  Add all of the remaining ingredients, except the salt, return to boil and simmer 1 - 2 hours or until all ingredients are well cooked and tender.  Add the salt in the last 20 minutes of cooking.
5. Add water, if necessary to reach the consistency of a hearty soup.  Return to boil.  Adjust seasoning, and serve.

Nutrition per serving: 214 Calories, 5g Fat (20.6% calories from fat), 13g Protein, 30g Carbohydrate, 8g Dietary Fiber, 12mg Cholesterol, 430 mg Sodium.

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If you have food or cooking questions, send them to Questions@KitchenSavvy.com
Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered.
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward

Cookie Dough Spreads Too Much

Q: I have a wonderful spice cookie recipe that I would love to modify to allow me to make gingerbread shaped cookies instead of round, drop cookies.  The dough spreads too much during rising to keep the shape.  It also is very hard to work with. Is there a simple way to modify the recipe while keeping the same taste?

-- Laura

There are a few things that you could try that might help.  First, and easiest, is to refrigerate the dough before baking.  If possible, I would recommend rolling and cutting the shapes and then refrigerating for at least an hour.  If that isn't convenient, then refrigerate the dough for two hours, or more, and then roll out enough for one cookie sheet at a time, cut and bake immediately.  Also, always let the cookie sheet cool down between batches, otherwise it will warm the dough before it goes into the oven, which would defeat the purpose of cooling it in the first place.

Flavor Layering

One of my wife's favorite appetizers when we have company is Pissaladiere, a caramelized onion tart from Provençe.  She enjoys the combination of sweet, salty and savory tastes, and the soft and firm textures.  To me, Pissaladiere is a perfect example of how flavors can be built, each upon the last, to give an exciting dish with variety and depth.  I liken it to a canvas painted in shades of sienna, umber, and ochre, with a few bright notes.  If you know the art of Didier Lourenço, his paintings El Descanso or El Limon are examples of what I mean.

As cooks, our pigments are the flavors that we use.  By choosing flavors that work together, we build depth.  The taste of the food changes on the palette, giving variety and perspective.  There are many examples of this; in rich stews, in sweet pastries and in hearty soups.

So, the recipe which I use for Pissaladiere starts with onions which are caramelized to a deep nutty brown, creating incredible flavors and sweetness.  Just before the onions are done, I add garlic and rosemary, which complement the onions and bring their own hues.  The rosemary, particularly has both deep and bright, grassy accents.  The pizza crust gives a crunchy counterpoint to the soft filling, and the toppings of anchovies, parmesan cheese and olives bring more hues, all in the same palette as the onions but with enough variety to build an interesting picture.

Pissaladiere

Filling
	5		Lg	Onions
	2		Tsp	Olive Oil
	2		Cloves	Garlic -- minced
		1/2	Tsp	Dried Rosemary -- ground
Dough
	1		Cup	Warm Water
	1		Tsp	Active Dry Yeast
	2	1/2	Cup	Unbleached Flour
	1		Tsp	Salt
	1		Tbsp	Olive Oil
Topping
	20			Canned Anchovies -- drained and halved lengthwise
	24			Niçoise Olives -- optional, pitted and sliced
		2/3	Cup	Freshly Grated Parmesan Cheese

1. Peel, and halve the onions.  Slice them into thin strips.  Heat a sauté pan to medium heat and pour in the two teaspoons of olive oil.  Add the sliced onions.  Cover and allow to steam down, 10 - 15 minutes, being careful to reduce the heat if they start to brown.  Remove the cover and continue to cook the onions down, stirring frequently and progressively reducing the heat as they brown until they are evenly softened and browned to a tan color.  The volume will be greatly reduced.  Add the garlic and rosemary, season lightly with salt and pepper and cook, stirring for two more minutes.  Remove from heat and allow to cool completely.
2. Meanwhile, make the dough for the crust.  Completely dissolve the yeast in the warm water.  Proof for 5 minutes to make sure it is still active.  Either by hand or using the dough hooks of an electric mixer, stir 1 cup of flour into the yeast mixture.  Sprinkle the salt over and continue to mix.  Stir in another cup of flour, continuing to mix.  Add the olive oil and mix until completely blended.  Add the last 1/2 cup of flour and knead to an soft dough, adding more flour, only if necessary.  Clean the bowl, oil lightly and then place the dough in, turning it to make sure it is completely coated with oil.  Cover with a plate or plastic wrap and allow the dough to rise in a warm place for about one hour, until doubled in volume.
3. Preheat the oven to 425ºF(220ºC).
4. When the dough has fully risen, punch it down and allow it to rest five minutes.  If using a cookie sheet, oil it lightly and then press the dough out to cover the bottom. If using a baking stone, shape the dough out to a rectangle as large as the stone will easily permit.  Sprinkle some corn meal on a pizza peel and put the dough on top, or place the dough on a piece of parchment paper on top of the peel.
5. Spread the cooled onion mixture evenly over the surface of the dough, leaving a thin edge.    Sprinkle with the parmesan cheese.  Lay the drained anchovy fillets onto the onions to form a lattice.  If using the olives, place a slice in the center of each lattice square.
6. Slide the pissaladiere onto the baking stone or place the cookie sheet into the oven and bake 15 to 20 minutes, until the cheese and the dough rim are nicely browned.
7. Remove from the oven and brush the rim lightly with olive oil.
8. Allow to cool until warm before serving.  Slice into pieces about 3"-4" (7.5cm-10cm) square.

Try this recipe and see how, as a cook, you can paint rich lively canvases of taste.
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As an after-note, I keep getting hits from people looking for how to pronounce "Pissaladiere".  The pronunciation is "pee-salad-YAIR". 

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If you have food or cooking questions, send them to Questions@KitchenSavvy.com
Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered.
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward

"Cheap Thrills" Recipe Comic Strip

I don't know why they call it Cheap Thrills, but have a look at this fun recipe comic strip.

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If you have food or cooking questions, send them to Questions@KitchenSavvy.com
Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered.
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward

Cappuccino Panna Cotta

This isn't supposed to be a recipe website (Lord knows, there are enough of those around!), but sometimes I'll find a recipe that is just so-o-o-o good that I want to publish it.  So, here is a great recipe for a tasty dessert:

Cappuccino Panna Cotta