KitchenSavvy

Mirepoix Ratios

Hi, Can you tell me if the 2 : 1 : 1 ratio of onions to carrots to celery in a mirepoix is by weight or volume? Thank You.

--Pat C

Interesting question! 

The Culinary Institute of America gives a ratio of 8 ounces of chopped onions to 4 ounces each of chopped carrots and celery for a basic Mirepoix, so they are using a 2 : 1 : 1 ratio by weight.

However, Larousse Gastronomique gives the ratio of vegetables as 100 g (4 oz) of onion, 150 g (5 oz) of carrots, and 50 g (2 oz) of celery.  The USDA gives weight for one cup, chopped, of each of these vegetables as follows:

Onions	160 g
Carrots	128 g
Celery	101 g

Using those numbers, the volumes of the ingredients would be about 2/3 cup of chopped onions, 1 cup + 2 tbsp of chopped carrots and 1/2 cup of chopped celery.    In this recipe, the carrots are dominant and nearly double the onios.  Neither by weight or volume is it close to the stated ratio.

The gold standard for home cooks is The Joy of Cooking.  According to the 75th edition, a mirepoix has one onion, one carrot, and one celery rib.  Again according to the USDA, a medium onion weighs 110 grams, a medium carrot weighs 61 grams and one medium stalk of celery weighs 40 grams.  All of the numbers are for the edible portion only.  That would be a ratio close to 2 : 1 : 0.67, by weight.  By volume it works out to 2/3 cup, 1/2 cup, and 6 tbsp, respectively.  Again, not too close to the 2 : 1 : 1 proportions either by weight or by volume.

So, where does all of this leave us?  As a general guideline, use twice the weight of diced onions as you do carrots and celery in making a mirepoix. However (and isn't there always a 'however'?), this is only a guideline.  Depending on what you are making, you may want more or less of any ingredient.  For a tomato sauce, you might choose to up the amount of carrots to compensate for the acidity of the tomatoes.  For a lighter dish, you might want to reduce the amount of onions so as not to overpower other flavors.

I also vary the amounts depending on the vegetables themselves.  If I'm working with the outer stalks of a head of celery, I may reduce the amount because I know those stalks will be stronger flavored and more bitter.  Similarly, when my father-in-law sends home onions, I use less of them because I know his onions are strong!

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Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered.
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward

A New Hollandaise Method

For most special occasions around our house, whether it's Christmas, a Birthday or Anniversary, we have Eggs Benedict for breakfast.  The recipe is pretty straightforward.  Toast and butter English muffin halves, top with ham or Canadian bacon slices and a poached egg, and nap the whole thing with Hollandaise Sauce.  That is, straightforward except maybe for making the Hollandaise Sauce, which can be a bit fussy.  I have had it turn out runny, I have had it separate on me while cooking, and I have had the eggs poach too firm while I was trying to make the Hollandaise.

Today for Valentine's Day I was inspired to try a different method, recommended by Jennifer McLagan in her book Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient, with Recipes, and based on Harold McGee's book The Curious Cook: More Kitchen Science and Lore.

The traditional method requires cooking the egg yolks and liquid(s) over a double boiler, mixing in the butter slowly like as if you ere making a mayonnaise, and then cooking until it is thickened.  Depending on the recipe, you may use melted butter, or cold butter out of the fridge, cubed and added one piece at a time.

The method McLagan uses is brilliantly simple.  Put everything into a saucepan over medium heat and whisk until its done.  At first the butter will soften and melt into the other ingredients, and then after a few more minutes the eggs will thicken.  In order to control temperature and avoid having the residual heat in the pan overcook the eggs, I continued to whisk while I put the bottom of the saucepan into a bowl of water to cool it off.  The method is incredibly simple, the results were as good as any Hollandaise I have ever made and the timing worked perfectly.  Just as I finished cooling the saucepan down, the eggs finished poaching and it was time to assemble the dish.

So, here's the recipe in detail:

3			Egg Yolks
2		tbsp	Fresh Lemon Juice
	1/4	tsp	Salt
			Fresh Ground Pepper, to taste
	3/4	cup	Cold Unsalted Butter, cut into about 12 pieces

Prepare a bowl of cold water and have it close by.

Whisk the egg yolks, lemon juice and seasoning together in a saucepan just until they are evenly mixed.  Break apart the pieces of butter and add them to the pan.

Place the pan over medium heat and whisk.  If the butter is melting too fast, you may need to lower the heat.  The intent is to have the butter melt and blend into the yolks without puddling on top.  Continue to whisk, being sure to work into the corner of the pan.  In a minute or so, the sauce will start to thicken.  Continue to cook until it clings to the whisk and would coat a spoon, about another minute or two.

Place just the bottom of the saucepan into the bowl of cold water and continue to whisk for another minute until the the pan has cooled down somewhat.  Taste, and if necessary adjust the amount of lemon juice or seasonings.

Since I was poaching eggs at the same time, I found it convenient to put the yolks into the pan, and combine the lemon juice and seasonings in a small dish until I was ready to make the Hollandaise.  If you combine them too soon, there is a chance that the acid and salt will cook the proteins in the eggs while it is sitting, like a ceviche.

If you are using salted butter, reduce the salt in the recipe by half or more.

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Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered.
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward

Solving Runny Tzatziki

Here's my problem.   I love tzatziki but every time I make isome, it ends up so runny you could almost drink it with a straw.  It is too runny for dipping pita or vegetables in.  How can I make it thicker?

--Gail

Tzatziki is a traditional Greek dish made by combining yogurt, crated cucumber and other ingredients.

There are two things you can do which will likely solve your problem completely.  The first is to very thick Greek style yogurt.  If you can't find Greek style yogurt, you can make a good substitute by straining regular yogurt. To do that, place a paper coffee filter into a strainer, place the strainer over a bowl large enough that the bottom of the strainer is at least 2 inches (5 cm) above the bottom of the bowl, and then pour the yogurt into the filter.  Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least two hours and up to overnight.

Depending on how long you leave the yogurt drain, it may be reduced by about half the volume and there will be about the same amount of yellowish liquid.  The longer you let it sit, the firmer your tzatziki will end up.  If you are straining the yogurt overnight, then after a couple of hours pour off the liquid in the bowl.  Drained yogurt is sometimes referred to as yogurt cheese.

Even if you are using Greek style yogurt, you may still want to strain it to make the final result even firmer.

The other trick you can try is once you have peeled, seeded and grated the cucumber, toss it with some salt and then place it into a fine sieve strainer and let it sit for an hour or so.  The salt will drain excess liquid out of the cucumber.  If you don't do this, the liquid will still come out of the cucumber only it will thin out the tzatziki once it is made.

Other ingredients that you might put into your yogurt include garlic, lemon zest, lemon juice, olive oil and mint.  Here are the ingredients that I use.  You may vary them according to your own preferences.

1	1/2	c	Strained Yogurt (see above)
1			English Cucumber
	3/4	tsp	Salt
	1/4	tsp	Fresh Ground Pepper
1		clove	Garlic, finely grated
1		tsp	Lemon Zest, finely grated
2-3		tsp	Lemon Juice
2		tsp	Extra Virgin Olive Oil
4-5			Mint Leaves, finely chopped	(optional)

Make the strained yogurt, as described above, starting with 3 cups of regular yogurt.  It will reduce to the desired amount.  I prefer to use a full fat yogurt because it gives a better mouthfeel, and because some of the flavors in the garlic and lemon zest are fat soluble so it enhances the taste of the final dish.

Peel, seed and grate the cucumber, using the fine toothed side of a box grater.  Toss with the salt and strain as described.

Blend all of the ingredients together.  Taste and adjust all of the flavors as desired.  Refrigerate for at least an hour and preferably a full day.  Remember that the flavors will meld some as it stands, but that the garlic may become stronger.

Serve with pita wedges or vegetables,  in gyros or as a side with other Greek foods.

Oh, and a final hint.  If you are making your tzatziki by whizzing everything in a blender, quit doing it that way.  The blender will encourage more liquid to come out from both the cucumber and the yogurt and will make the end result too uniform in both texture and flavor.

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Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered.
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward

Caramelized Onion, Chevre and Fig Tart

I love cooking with caramelized onions. They have a rich, complex flavor which is suited to many applications. They are the basis of dishes like classic French Onion Soup and and Pissaladiere. Caramelized onion can also be used stews and braises, in making bread and as a complement to meat. 

On a recent trip to France, we discovered a natural affinity for chevre cheese and figs so, bringing these flavors together, I invented the following recipe.

Caramelized Onion, Chevre and Fig Tart

Amount		Measure	Ingredient
2		Med	Onions
1	1/2	Tsp	Olive Oil
	1/2	Tsp	Salt
3	1/2	Oz	Chevre Cheese, unripened
3		Tbsp	Fig Jam
18			Mini Tart Shells

1. Peel onions, halve and slice into 1/8th inch slices. Place in a bowl, sprinkle with salt and let sit for 5 - 10 minutes.
2. Heat a sauté pan to medium heat and add the olive oil. Add the sliced onions. Sprinkle on the salt.  Toss. Cover and allow to steam down, 10 - 15 minutes, being careful to reduce the heat if they start to brown.
3. Remove the cover, and continue to cook the onions down, stirring frequently and progressively reducing the heat as they brown, until they are evenly softened and browned to a mahogany color. The volume will be greatly reduced. Allow to cool.
4. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C)
5. Place tart shells onto a cookie sheet. Give the caramelized onions a rough chop just to remove any long pieces and then divide evenly among the tart shells. Divide the chevre evenly among the tarts, spreading it, if possible, to cover the onions. Top each tart with 1/2 teaspoon of the fig jam.
6. Bake tarts for 20 to 25 minutes, until the edges of the tart shells are lightly browned and the jam is bubbling. Remove from oven and allow to cool before serving.

In place of the second step above, you can toss the onions with the salt and then microwave on high for about 15 minutes until they soften and reduce to about three quarters their original volume.  Place the onions and any liquid into the oiled pan and proceed as in step 3.

As they caramelize, the onions will reduce down a much smaller volume, as shown in the following pictures.

Raw Onions		The Same Onions After Being Caramelized

In these pictures, eight large yellow onions, about 5.3 pounds (2.8 Kg) were caramelized, resulting in about 2 1/4 cups (300 ml) of finished product.  The two onions in the recipe should yield about 9 tablespoons, or about 1/2 tablespoon per tart.

Don't spend extra to buy sweet onions for caramelization.  By the time you are done, the sharp sulfur compounds will have cooked off completely, so use the least expensive onions you can find.

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Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered.
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward

Simple Pleasures - Figs St. Antoine

On our recent trip to France, Pat and I stayed at a lovely converted farmhouse just south of Avignon, called Mas St. Antoine, operated by Kerrin & Keryn Webster, who describe themselves as "Two kiwis making a life in Provence."  It was late September and their fig trees were covered with fruit ready to be picked.

Kerrin suggested we top them with a piece of chevre and grill them on the barbecue.  The next day, we set out to find some nice, unripened chevre.  The Mas also had huge rosemary bushes, at least by Saskatchewan standards, four or five feet in diameter.  That night, we picked some figs, cleaned them, topped them with a slice of the cheese and then sprinkle on some rough chopped rosemary.  Onto the grill they went, over medium-high heat, for about four minutes.  The time was basically as long as my nerves would stand cooking them before I thought they might be burned on the bottoms.

To accompany the figs, we sliced some baguette, toasted it on the grill and then drizzled on a good splash of fresh olive oil.

What a wonderful appetizer, with the slight tang of the chevre balancing the sweetness of the fresh figs.

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Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered.
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward

Going Up in Smoke

In a posting recently, you mention cold smoking.  Can you please explain the difference between cold smoking and hot smoking?

Thanks

--Shawn

Traditionally, smoke was used to cure and meat, fish or other foods to help prevent spoilage.  Nowadays, smoking may also be done simply to add flavor or complexity to foods such as cheeses or vegetables.

Cold smoking adds flavor and helps to preserve meat without cooking it.  Typically, cold smoking is done in a temperature range of around 70°F to 90°F ( 21°C to 32°C), depending on what kind of food is being smoked.  Because the temperature is so low, equipment for cold smoking usually has a firebox where wood is burned and the resulting smoke is routed into a separate chamber where the food is placed.  Because the temperature is so low, the meat or other food isn't cooked, but the smoke accumulates on the surface and penetrates into the outer layer of the food.  Cold smoking may be combined with other techniques like salting or brining to further help preserve the food.

In hot smoking, the firebox may be integral to the smoking chamber or attached directly to it.  The temperature of the smoking chamber will usually run between 140°F to 180°F ( 60°C to 80°C).  Hot smoke foods may be eaten immediately, as in traditional barbecue, or may be cooled down to be eaten later, as happens with some forms of sausage.

In either case, the food is either hung or placed on racks in order to maximize the surface area exposed to the smoke.

For something different, try taking your favorite blue cheese, cold smoking it for about 15 to 30 minutes, depending on taste, and then mixing it with equal parts mayonnaise and sour cream to make a dip for vegetables.  You can play with the flavors even more by adding a little cumin or curry powder to the mix.

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Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered.
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward

A "Grate" Secret for Tender Biscuits

For years, I have heard of the technique of using frozen butter to make better biscuits.  It's one of those ideas that you say to yourself, "I'll have to try that some day," but somehow you just never get around to it.

By grating the frozen butter and then gently mixing it into the dry ingredients, you avoid having the butter soften to the point that it actually blends into the flour.  For light biscuits, you want flour and butter to be distinct, so that the flakes of butter melt and release steam into the dough, making it light and fluffy.  If the butter is melted into the flour during blending, this won't happen.  In addition, the shards of frozen butter trap some air due to their shape, which adds to the lightness of the finished product.

Recently Chef Michael Smith wrote an article for the Globe and Mail describing this technique.  Well, it finally was time.  This past weekend I made a beef stew, and decided to serve biscuits with it, using Chef Smith's technique.  To start though, I had to modify his recipe a bit because I had planned to make buttermilk biscuits.  Chef Smith's recipe called for plain milk.  To change the recipe, I had to replace some of the baking powder with baking soda to offset the acidity of the buttermilk.   The general rule is that you need about ½ teaspoon of baking soda per cup of buttermilk (see Baking Soda and Buttermilk).   A half teaspoon of baking soda will give the same rise as two teaspoons of baking powder.

Armed with these substitutions, I used the following recipe for my Biscuits:

               

Buttermilk Biscuits
2		cups	All-purpose flour
1	½	tsp	Baking Powder
	½	tsp	Baking Soda
	½	tsp	Salt
	¾	cup	Butter, frozen
7		fl. oz.	Buttermilk

1. Preheat your oven to 400°F (205°C).
2. Combine all of the dry ingredients in a mixing bowl and set aside.
3. Measure and set aside the cold buttermilk.
4. Using the large holes of a box grater, grate the frozen butter into shards.  Add the butter to the dry ingredients and then toss with a spoon just to blend, breaking up any clumps of butter that may have formed during the grating.  Do not over mix.
5. Pour in the buttermilk and stir in with a spoon, just until the ingredients pull together.  Turn the mixture out onto a lightly floured surface and knead the dough gently, just a few turns, to bring it together into a single mass.  If necessary add a bit more buttermilk or some water.
6. Shape the dough into a rough circle and cut into wedges, or roll out and cut to any desired shape.
7. Transfer the biscuits to a baking sheet that has been lightly coated with cooking spray and cook 15 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown.

Makes 8 to 12 biscuits.

If you want, you can brush the surface of the biscuits with milk to given a nicer finish when they are cooked.  Chef Smith suggests sprinkling them with coarse salt and fresh ground pepper before baking.

To make it easier to grate the butter without skinning your knuckles, start with a larger piece and mark the ¾ cup measure onto the block with a sharp knife.  Wrap the unused end in the paper the butter came in, and then grate down to the mark, holding the wrapped end.

This recipe uses regular, salted butter.  If you wish to use unsalted butter, increase the salt in the recipe by ¼ teaspoon.

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Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered.
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward

Barbecued Bones

Well, we're starting to see the last of winter in Saskatchewan.  It has been long and at times bitterly cold, but as the days get longer and the sun gets warmer, you start to allow yourself to think about summer's treats, just around the corner.

One of mine is a feast of Barbecued Bones.  Rich, meaty beef ribs that have been slowly braised until they are so tender the meat is a dark chocolaty brown, dripping with rich sauce and fork tender.  A feast so good, I have friends with standing orders to be invited back for more.

To make them, I start with beef short ribs which I fire over a hot grill until they are seared completely on the outside.  Grilling adds flavor and cooks off some of the fat.  Then I put them into a pot, cover them with barbecue sauce and simmer them over low heat for hours. 

The following recipe will serve six good appetites, or four if they are really hungry.

Barbecue Bones
8		lbs	Beef Short Ribs
1		batch	Barbecue Sauce (below)
1		can	Condensed Beef Broth
1	¼	cups	Water
Barbecue Sauce
2		cup	Water
2		cup	White Corn Syrup
2		5 1/2-fl. oz. Can	Tomato Paste
1	½	cup	Cider Vinegar
	½	cup	Molasses
4		tsp	Liquid Smoke
2		tsp	Salt
1		tsp	Onion Powder
1		tsp	Fresh Ground Black Pepper
	½	tsp	Dry Mustard
	½	tsp	Paprika
	½	tsp	Garlic Powder
		dash	Cayenne Pepper
1		cup	Brown Sugar

To make the Barbecue Sauce, combine all of the ingredients in a large sauce pan, bring to a boil and reduce over low heat until there are about 4½ to 5 cups of liquid left.  Stir frequently to avoid burning.  This sauce can be used for any kind of barbecued meat, or burgers.

To make the bones, fire your grill to high heat and then sear the bones on all sides.  Place bones in a large pot or dutch oven and pour over the barbecue sauce, stock and water.  Simmer on the stove top, covered, over a low heat or cover and put in a 275°F (135°C) oven.  Check the pot a few times at the start.  You want to cook them at a very slow simmer, just so that you can see a few small bubbles breaking the surface.  Adjust the heat up if there are no bubbles, or down if it starts to boil.  Cook for three to four hours, or until fork tender, turning occasionally so that any meat above the liquid doesn't dry out.

Serve with baked potatoes, corn on the cob and plenty of napkins.

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Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered.
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward

Bean and Barley Soup Nana

When our children came along, my Mom decided that she wanted them to call her Nana, so that became her name in later life.  This soup was a family favorite.  It is a hearty soup, perfect for cold days.  If you want, replace the beef with lamb or mutton to make Scotch Broth.

Makes about 16 servings.

Bean and Barley Soup Nana

Amt		Units	Ingredient
	¾	Cup	Dried lima beans
	½	Cup	Dried navy beans
1	½	Lbs	Beef Shank, cubed
2		Tbsp	Olive oil
	¼	Cup	Dried porcini mushrooms
16		Cups	Water
	½	Tsp	Fresh ground pepper
1		Large	Bay leaf
	½	Cup	Dried lentils
1		Cup	Barley
2		Med	Onions, diced
2		Med	Carrot, diced
2		Clove	Garlic, minced
3		Large	Potatoes, peeled and cubed
1		Tbsp	Salt

1. Clean and soak beans overnight in cold water.  Drain well, rinse and drain again, discarding the water each time.
2. In a large pot, sauté the beef in the oil until browned on all sides.  Do in batches, if necessary, to avoid crowding.
3. Meanwhile, soak the dried mushrooms in 1 cup of boiling water.  Drain the mushrooms, reserving the soaking water.  If necessary, chop the mushrooms into smaller pieces.  Strain the soaking water to remove any sediment.
4. Add beans, the water in which the mushrooms were soaked and the plain water to the pot with the beef and bring to a boil.  Add all of the remaining ingredients, except the salt, return to boil and simmer 1 - 2 hours or until all ingredients are well cooked and tender.  Add the salt in the last 20 minutes of cooking.
5. Add water, if necessary to reach the consistency of a hearty soup.  Return to boil.  Adjust seasoning, and serve.

Nutrition per serving: 214 Calories, 5g Fat (20.6% calories from fat), 13g Protein, 30g Carbohydrate, 8g Dietary Fiber, 12mg Cholesterol, 430 mg Sodium.

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Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered.
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward

Cookie Dough Spreads Too Much

Q: I have a wonderful spice cookie recipe that I would love to modify to allow me to make gingerbread shaped cookies instead of round, drop cookies.  The dough spreads too much during rising to keep the shape.  It also is very hard to work with. Is there a simple way to modify the recipe while keeping the same taste?

-- Laura

There are a few things that you could try that might help.  First, and easiest, is to refrigerate the dough before baking.  If possible, I would recommend rolling and cutting the shapes and then refrigerating for at least an hour.  If that isn't convenient, then refrigerate the dough for two hours, or more, and then roll out enough for one cookie sheet at a time, cut and bake immediately.  Also, always let the cookie sheet cool down between batches, otherwise it will warm the dough before it goes into the oven, which would defeat the purpose of cooling it in the first place.